I am adding this entry more for my sake than for any other reason. Because some of my grandchildren are toddler”s, I have to apply snap tape to the crotch of their garments often, and I forget how I got it to work from one time to the next, so I took photos and a video last time to add it here to refer to later. I used the zipper foot, 4D, and moved the needle to the far left position so the snaps would be to the left of the presser foot.
A little hint. If you have to stop an embroidery design in the middle of the project, there are some important steps you should take, in order to be able to finish correctly. (Ask me how I know… lol)
On my embroidery machine, and I assume on probably all embroidery machines, there is a stitch counter that displays the stitch count where you are currently in the design.
In this photo you can see the stitch count is at #11885. If I needed to stop at this point, for whatever reason, say reloading the bobbin, or to go do something else, etc., I keep a notepad and pen by my machine and I jot down that stitch count number.
Then, if while you were away, the machine gets turned off, for whatever reason, maybe the electricity blinks, somebody accidentally hits the switch or the cord, etc., then you can return to the exact spot to finish. If you fail to do this, and the machine gets turned off, the pattern will be reset to the beginning and it will be virtually impossible to find the same spot to finish that pattern. I learned this the hard way!
Ever try to embroider on really thin fabric like Organdy? I was attempting to machine embroider on Organdy for a new Christening Gown I have designed, but was having difficulty keeping it taut in the hoop. After quite a few trials and errors, and searching for info on the internet, I found a new technique. Organdy is fairly stiff fabric but very, very sheer and thin, so it slips easily in the hoop. I solved this problem by using a thin layer of rubber drawer liner cut out like a frame to go between the organdy and the top hoop. This holds the organdy very nicely.
This photo shows one on the right that was done without the rubber sheet, one on the left with the sheet, much neater.
In this photo you can see how the frame of rubber fits into the hoop.
Pin stitching was originally done by hand. Drawn thread work is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use in fact a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped as whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques. The most basic kind of drawn thread work is hemstitching. Drawn thread work is often used to decorate the trimmings of clothes or household linens. The border between hemstitching gone fancy and more elaborate styles of drawn thread work isn”t always clear.\r\n\r\n In 1890, Karl Friedrich Gegauf set up his own business in Steckborn, Switzerland, opening an embroidery and mechanical workshop for the manufacture of his own invention, a monogram embroidery machine. Together with his brother Georg, a salesman, Karl Friedrich ran the “Gebrüer Gegauf” (Bros. Gegauf) company. Through his involvement in the textile industry, he noticed how laborious it was to produce hemstitching, which until then could only be done manually. Consequently, in 1893 Karl Friedrich Gegauf invented the world”s first hemstitch sewing machine, capable of sewing 100 stitches per minute.\r\n\r\nIn 1895 the Bros. Gegauf workshop was completely destroyed by fire, except for the prototype of the hemstitch sewing machine, which was the only thing that could be rescued. Undeterred, Karl Friedrich erected a new workshop in an old barn, where the focus was no longer on embroidery, but on the construction of the hemstitch sewing machine, which the company now also exported abroad. 70 people were employed in the serial production of the hemstitch sewing machine. The name Gegauf became so famous that from then on, the mechanical production of hemstitching, whether as embellishment for handkerchiefs, tablecloths or bedspreads, was commonly referred to as “gegaufing”.\r\n\r\nNow some clever seamstress has developed a method to mimick hemstitching using a wing needle. The wing needle puntures holes in the fabric that look like the holes made by the drawn threadwork.\r\n\r\nIn order for hemstitching to look good, it must be done on natural fibers, such as cotton or linen. It will not work on synthetic fibers such as polyester. In addition, the fabrics should be somewhat thin, such as batiste or handkerchief linen.\r\n\r\nSet machine stitch to pin stitch, which looks sort of like a ladder without one side, the “rungs” of the ladder should stitch over the lace heading towards the right. Machine Settings on my Bernina 1260 are Stitch width = 2.5, Stitch length = 2.5\r\n*please note that these are the settings I used – you might have to adjust the width and length on the project you are working on.\r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n \r\n\r\nPlace a piece of Stitch ”n Ditch paper under fabric and lace Align the needle so that the left straight stitch line will be directly above the lace heading – “rungs of ladder” will stitch into the lace *Note: I like to use a clear foot for this step, as it makes it alot easier to see where the lace meets the fabric and to keep my straight stitch directly above the lace seam line.\r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nAs you stitch you will be able to see the beautiful pin stitching! When complete, tear the Stitch ”n Ditch paper away. Finished beautiful pin stitched edge! I do not always use the stabilizer, but you must make sure you starch the fabric very well or you won”t see the hemstitching. I also use a very find thread for this, you don”t want to fill up the decorative “holes” with thread.\r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n\r\n